For the pulling tests, I put the string loop on the pulling location of the string. This allows the string to be pulled from a consistent place without sliding around, unlike a plain hook on the pulling rope which tends to slide all over the place.
Figure 6. Brace height on the tillering tree. The test bow was placed on the tillering tree with bow center on the pivot point of the tree. Now for the tests. I put the bow on my pivoting tillering tree. With bow center at the center of the pivoting tillering tree, the tips were bent down to the same line on the wall from the back of the bow. Figure 7. The pulley at the bottom of the tillering tree was set in the center position…in line with bow center and string center. My tillering tree is set up with a pulley at the bottom of the wall and a pull rope that allows me to pull the bow while standing back at a distance.
It has a couple of different eye bolts to hold the pulley at different locations. I put the pulley in the eyebolt that is located straight in line with the center of the bow. Figure 8. Pushing at bow center, pulling at string center three under shooting style. The bow shows perfect balance. We can call this perfect tiller. The first test involved pushing at bow center since the bow was centered on the tree , as well as pulling at the center of the string.
As you can see in the photo, the string pulled straight down in line with the center of the bow, the limbs look perfectly symmetrical, and the bow tips were pulling down to the same line on the wall.
This was a good sign. This meant that the parallel lamination test bow limbs were pulling evenly. We can assume that they were very near to being equal strength.
We can call this perfect balance and perfect tiller. This should represent pulling a bow with three-under shooting style since we are pulling the string directly in line with the pushing location on the bow. No tiller adjustment required. Zero tiller is perfectly balanced. Figure 9. The bow is unbalanced. As you can see in this photo, the bow is tilted down on the right, the limbs are bending unevenly, and the right limb tip is pulling lower.
In other words, the bow is unbalanced. It should be very easy to see that a tillering adjustment is needed to make the bow pull evenly. Figure Okay…now for the next test. It would mean shooting the arrow right through your bow hand, which is not an option for most of us…lol.
But seriously, the reason for this test is because it is the symmetrical opposite of the previous test in Figure 9. Like we should expect, it is also unbalanced in exactly the opposite direction as Figure 9. In this test, making the right upper limb stronger would help balance the bow. The bow is balanced! Now this is where the testing got interesting! The string is being pulled straight in line with the pushing location, so this can be considered three-under shooting style.
WOW…even thought the limbs are obviously unequal length, the bow is perfectly balanced. See how the tips are pulling down to the same line on the wall. This was a surprising test result. This will represent split finger shooting style with a lower grip. Notice that the bow is out of balance! Like the other tests where the pushing and pulling locations were not aligned, this bow will require a tiller adjustment.
Again, making the lower limb stronger will help balance this bow. Are you starting to see a trend? And now another completely illogical test, but useful none-the-less. Again, it is not possible to shoot a bow this way, but it shows the out of balance result.
Now it is obvious to see that the trend we are seeing is that any time the pushing and pulling locations are not aligned, a tiller adjustment is required to balance the bow. The bow is balanced. Again, these pushing and pulling locations represent three under shooting style. And again, like the tests we did in Figure 8 and Figure 11, this bow is perfectly balanced. So how well did these tests do to prove or disprove the four popular myths? I then tiller for limb balance while drawing the string where my string hand fulcrum will be.
When it's built balanced relative to that nock point location and my fulcrums, there's no need to move nock points afterwards to 'fix' anything. There's nothing to fix. Tiller profile at brace is merely a result after tillering is finished It simply is whatever it ends up as.
Nowadays I don't even bother to take that measurement because it's meaningless. Sometimes it's negative, sometimes even, sometimes positive. It can vary from bow to bow, even if they're layed out and shot the same.
How it ends up depends as much on the unbraced profile, any inherent internal differences in the limbs, etc. That can all change from bow to bow, as can their tiller profiles, while each is equally, accurately balanced. Since my tree mimics how I shoot, I know if it's balanced on the tree, It'll be balanced in my hand and shoot an arrow just right, first time, every time.
It's so simple and predictable. Conversely, if I had two bows, the 1st with a little deflex in the bottom limb, where the 2nd bow was straight or had reflex, and tillered them both to the same predetermined tiller measurement How would I know? Cuz the arrow flew poorly? Then what, move nock points to try to correct imbalances? Sounds like some unnecessary guessing and hoping to me No thanks.
Crooked Stic Trad Bowhunter Posts: Most of my bows have the shelf 1 in. The two piece are sometimes as much as 1. I shot for even tiller on all of them and adjust nocking points.
The tiller is important for the balance of the bow, but it cannot be fine-tuned without taking the whole of the bow set up in to consideration and your shooting ability. The better you shoot the more important it might be, but there are still many top archers that set the tiller to zero and just make adjustments to the nocking point height with a bit of balancing of the stabilisers by adding weight on the ends to stop the bow moving up or down. For most club archers working on form is more important, so there is no real benefit to stray from basic set up until we are shooting around to points for a WA70 or we need to investigate why the arrow flight is particularly poor.
Remember: the bow will always outshoot the archer. Almost always, anyway. Just beginning Olympic style recurve archery at age 70, and trying to build strength. Types of exercise would be helpful. Im 77 just shoot a lot of arrows at least a day lve been doing it since nothing else seams to work. I may have missed it but this only applies to shooting with a fixed string position, if you are shooting bare bow and string walking then you actually want the bow to tip downward when you crawl down the string.
So you MUST measure the tiller. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Is tiller and bracing height really that important? Andrew Smith investigates. A well-balanced tiller should not move the bow up or down at full draw With a modern three piece recurve bow, we do not hold the bow in the centre. Everyone needs to check their nocking point from time to time, too. Bareshafts should be sitting tight in the group at 18m.
The essential tools to check tiller — three bareshafts. Tagged with: archer , archers , barebow , barebows , bolts , bow , bracing , coach , height , ilf , recurve , stringwalk , target , tiller Posted in Technique.
Abu fadhil says:. May 24, at pm. Lynn Tuten says:. June 28, at am. Gary larsen says:. August 21, at am.
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